Monthly Archives: April 2012

April in London (Part 2) – Where We Ate

We did not eat here –  The Churchill War Rooms Kitchen

On my last visit to London, I was overruled by my kids whenever I tried to plan a meal at a special restaurant – they insisted we allow serendipity to rule when choosing where to eat. This time, with Irene on my side, and half the child contingent at home (sadly, but in this case…), I actually planned a few meals ahead of time, letting the restaurant location drive what else we did that day.  Thanks ever so much to pastry chef and blogger Shuna Fish Lydon, whose London fave restaurant list served as our personal Zagat guide to the city.  I’m hoping this post will serve as helpful to my readers as her post was for me.

St John’s Bread and Wine
94-96 Commercial Street, London E1 6LZ.


Our first dip into Shuna’s list yielded the best meal of our trip – Lunch at St John’s Bread and Wine on a rainy Thursday mid-afternoon.  St Johns specializes in what is called “nose to toes” eating, a traditional British way to use all of the animal, which is why the menu was rife with offal dishes, offal being the word used to describe organ meats such as kidney, tongue and liver, which despite what you may think, do not necessarily taste awful. (Sorry, I just had to do the obvious…)

We played it safe just in case and started with the salted beef broth with dumplings. Irene, who readers know is the best home cook in the world, declared it the best soup she’d ever eaten. (Anyone who has ever tasted Irene’s chicken soup will appreciate just how stellar this beef broth was…)

I think I agree. Next up was the best appetizer I’ve ever eaten – Fois Gras and Duck Liver Toast with a side of cornichons.

If you have any doubts as to how good this really was, just look at this bread.

Irene insisted that we guild the lily, and while I only did this for one bite, that bite was such stuff as dreams are made of…

Finally, a salad that I plan to replicate at home very very soon – cauliflower, leeks and chickpeas with capers and a light horseradish dressing.


The crowd at St Johns that late afternoon was mostly hip bald British chef-types and young male foodies with an occasional woman thrown in for color. The owner of the place was holding court at a table near us and there was lots of wine flowing. I felt a bit like I had crashed a private party, but we were treated quite well despite being the only non-locals in the place.

St Johns is worth making a special trip. Go on a Thursday and combine it with a visit to Spitalfields Antique Market just across the street, which is what we did.

Olivelli Ristorante Paradisio
35 Store St, London WCiE 7BS

This unassuming restaurant on Store Street in Bloomsbury was around the corner from our hotel, and we popped in for lunch on Friday after my daughter’s final performance at RADA (Did I mention she was wonderful?….).The service was excellent, and while the pasta and risotto were quite fine though not especially memorable, the mussels were probably the best I’ve ever eaten. On the smaller side, which I like, perfectly cooked and seasoned and teeming with garlic. If you’re looking for a good meal in Bloomsbury, this place is a sure bet.

Chez Marcelle
34 Blythe Road, London W14 0HA
+442076033241

My sister-in-law Nancy, who frequently visits London for work, recommended this lovely restaurant in Olympia for delicious, well-priced Lebanese food.  It was our first meal in London, and set the tone for what was a great trip food-wise. The #10 bus took us practically there from our hotel in Bloomsbury, making it not as out of the way as one might think.

Chez Marcelle is a one woman show starring Marcelle herself, who hosts, cooks, hosts and serves, along with only one assistant the night we ate there. We arrived on the early side, about 6:30 pm, and had Marcelle’s undivided attention until the place began to fill up, afer which we had to share her with the other diners. That meant we had to wait until she was finished preparing our neighbor’s meal before she could write out our check, but that was fine with us. This is not haute cuisine, but home cooked authentic Lebanese food, every dish freshly prepared by Marcelle and every dish delicious. Here are some examples from our meal –

  • Bazinjan Rahib  – Grilled aubergine peppers, onions, tomatoes and parsley dressed w/ lemon, olive oil & garlic. Like baba ganoush, but better, and added to my list of things to learn to make.

  •  Grllled Halloumih Cheese

  • Jawaneh – Grilled chicken wings with garlic and lemon juice

  • Kebbe Maklieh

If you love Lebanese food, Zagat has compiled their top 5 London Lebanese restaurants, but they don’t list Chez Marcelle. Someone needs to let them know about this special place.

Gourmet Burger Kitchen (GBK)


Okay, I admit this restaurant is part of a chain, but the burgers,”made from 100% West Country beef”, are fabulous, the price is right and there’s a branch on Maiden Lane, making it a perfect place to grab a quick bite pre or post theater.  The service on Maiden Lane was not as good as at the Putney branch, where we ate the last time we visited London.  But the atmosphere was lively, our fellow diners friendly and talkative, and the burgers tasted just as good, if not better than the ones we ate at the more sedate Putney branch. Great fries and milk shakes, too. With branches all around London, GBK is a one place to keep in mind when you need a reliably good meal fast. Or just crave a fabulous burger.

The Modern Pantry
47-48 St John’s Square, London EC1V
4JJ 020 7553 9210

The Modern Pantry was another recommendation from Shuna that I wish I could say I loved as much as she did, but…

Any menu that takes a paragraph to list the title of a single dish is probably making cooking more complex than it need be.  Other than a delicious scallop on a bed of parsnip puree, I found the food overly fussy, with competing flavors and no rhyme or reason as to why certain ingredients were paired.  I know this is called fusion cooking, but it seemed more like mishmash cooking to me – almost as if I had filled my plate with several different dishes from a buffet rather than ordered a single dish. For example –

  • Confit duck leg, sweetcorn, black beans, sugar snaps & coriander, plum & Bramley apple relish
  • Fig, apple & raspberry oat crumble, goats curd sorbet, runny cream

That said, the service was fabulous, the wine absolutely incredible (such legs!…), the atmosphere warm and inviting and the location on St John’s Square – perfect.  So if fusion cooking is your thing, you’ll love The Modern Pantry. The place was packed, so you won’t be alone. Tell them I sent you.

Tea at the Tate Modern Level 7
Bankside, London SE1 9TG

The Food at the Tate is well-priced, with views of St Paul’s Cathedral and the city that alone are worth the visit, and more than made up for the lack of decent art on display downstairs on the day we visited. (Don’t get me started on Damien Hirst..)

The scones with clotted cream were surprisingly and unnecessarily large – but they were moist and delicious and the tea was lovely, served in little tea-press pots. My cheese platter was a bit disappointing – nothing special about the cheeses they chose to feature. The tea sandwiches and baguette were fine. But the views – I could have sat there forever.

Store Street Espresso
40 Store Street, WC1E 7DB

Best place for coffee in Bloomsbury, according to my barista-trained daughter. My one cup of takeaway cappuccino was perfect, so I’d agree. Not to mention great atmosphere, free wi-fi, decent food and a book exchange.
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More London Restaurant Reviews 

Up next – Old Spitalfields Antique Market 

Nutella Settles Lawsuit for $3 Million – Will You File For Your Piece of the Settlement?

The Ferrero Group has agreed to pay $3 million to settle a lawsuit that claims they are falsely advertising Nutella as a healthy breakfast food. (See their ad above – What do you think?)

The suit was brought by a handful of US consumers, but you can get in on the settlement to the tune of $5 per jar of Nutella that you may have purchased, up to a total of $20, no receipt needed.

The Nationwide Class provides for a settlement fund of $2,500,000 and the California Class provides for a settlement fund of $550,000 for a total of $3,050,000. Class Members can receive up to $4 per jar of Nutella that they purchased during the time periods listed above. Class Members who purchased multiple jars of Nutella during the time periods can submit a claim for up to five jars for a maximum award of $20 per household. If the value of the claims of the Nationwide Class exceeds $2,500,000, or the value of the claims of the California Class exceeds $550,000, then payments will be reduced proportionally.

I think the lawsuit was appropriate

I love Nutella. Who doesn’t?  But marketing Nutella as breakfast food? That moves it from the candy aisle in your brain to the meal part, takes away the guilt component and makes it a part of your daily routine rather than a once in while indulgence. It’s brilliant marketing, actually.

But there’s no way that stuff is part of a daily wholesome breakfast. As a mom and a physician, that the ad truly pissed me off when I first saw it.  Nutella’s first ingredient listed on the label is sugar. And yet sugar is never mentioned in the ad – just hazelnuts, milk and cocoa. So yeah, I think that’s false advertising.

Some have suggested that the lawsuit is frivolous. A Nutella breakfast is no worse than a bowl of sweet cereal, something advertised to kids all the time, they say. Just read the label, others tell us, and anyway, how stupid can you be not to know that Nutella is basically spreadable candy in a jar?

To them, I’d argue that many American consumers, who may have trouble affording a trip to Disney World,  let alone to Europe, have until recently never heard of Nutella. For many of them, this ad was their introduction to the product. Imagine that if the first time you heard what a Hershey bar was, it was being advertised as part of a balanced wholesome breakfast. Would you think that was false advertising?

I do agree that all it takes is a glance at the label to know what you’re buying, and abdicating responsibility for your wallet and your health to advertisers is not smart. But highlighting to ad makers that smoke and mirrors won’t fly is the right thing to do. If this makes the Mad Men pause before writing their next line of copy, then I say $3 million is a small price to pay. Not to mention all the free advertising the settlement is netting Nutella. Hmmmm… I wonder if the whole thing isn’t just one giant marketing scheme?

This isn’t the first time Ferrero has been asked to stop pretending Nutella is healthy

They’ve been slapped on the wrists in Europe for the same thing. The UK actually banned Nutella’s breakfast ads there. But attempts by the EU to ban advertisting of unhealthy foods is meeting opposition, in large part because of fears that it would hurt Nutella’s business.

Please. That stuff is like crack cocaine. It will always have a market.

Do you know what pisses me off even more than that stupid Nutella ad?

I just found out that the Nutella sold in the US is not as good as the stuff they make and sell in Europe.

Now that’s something to sue about…

April in London – Part 1


One of the best parts about having your daughter do a semester abroad is that you have an excuse to cross the pond. Put that child in RADA’s Shakespeare program, then realize your visit coincides with Shakespeare’s birthday, and you begin to feel that the Bard himself has conspired to make that visit one of the most memorable, if not short, vacations you’ve ever taken.

It was just my mother-in-law Irene and I on this trip, and while we had a marvelous time together, we missed Mr TBTAM and my other daughter, who would have loved every minute of this vacation.

Where we stayed

The Academy, 21 Gower Street in Bloomsbury

If you want to hang with the locals, but still be close enough to walk to Covent Garden, Trafalgar Square and the British Museum, with easy access to buses or the tube to take you anywhere else you want to go, then Bloomsbury is where you want to stay. It’s the home of the University of London, the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine and The Royal Academy of Dramatic Arts, so the streets are teeming with students and academic types. Needless to say, I felt right at home.

Our hotel was absolutely wonderful – a linked series of five townhouses, with small but lovely rooms, a conservatory and garden for relaxing or taking your morning coffee, and a restaurant.

Not to mention free wireless internet, great towels and fresh bottled water left at your door each evening by the small, personable staff.

However, in typical British fashion, the place had its quirks, with smallish rooms, a tiny-tiny bathroom, a shower that never really got hot-hot, and perpetually cold hallways due to ill-fitted front doors in the townhouses that let the air in all day and night. (I really think the Brits just don’t feel the cold the way we Yanks do…) None of which took away from the charm of the place, and I’d stay there again in a heartbeat.

The Weather

It rained every single day, but only intermittently, rarely heavily and apparently not enough to halt drought warnings.  The rapid changes in weather, while unpredictable, brought some amazing skies and light –

Spitalfields streets before the rain fell

St Paul’s Cathedral and Millenium Bridge between the rains

Store Street after the rain

And in Stratford-Upon-Avon

we even saw a rainbow.

The Little Things that Make London Different

As always, when traveling I love the little things that remind me I’m not in Kansas anymore . Like the bathroom stalls

the rented opera glasses,

the different words they use

and of course, the people.

The Big Thing That Makes London Different

You really know you’re not in America when it comes to transportation. Taxis are quite expensive and cars pay a fee to enter the center of London. As a result, public transportation is central to the busy life of this international city and puts every American city, including New York, to shame. I’ve never seen more buses in my life, one very few seconds it seemed on the busier routes.

And the train stations! Gloriously bright and beautiful  – Liverpool Street,

Marylebone

and Charing Cross Road.

And although London is not yet Amsterdam, it’s getting there. We saw hundreds of bikes parked overnight at the train station,

ready for retrieval by commuters in the morning rush.

And of course, there’s Barclays’ Bicycle Hire  – launched in 2010 and still expanding. (Pic from Wikipedia)

The Best Thing About London

But the best thing about London? It’s where I got to spend time with two of my favorite people in the world – Emily and Irene.

A fine pair of traveling companions indeed.

Up Next – Part 2: Where We Ate in London

Faure’ Cantique de Jean Racine

 

I’m performing this with my chorus in a few weeks (along with the Faure’ Requiem). I’ve been so enjoying this wonderful recording by the Orchestre de Paris that I just had to share it with you. It is one of the most beautiful pieces of music I’ve ever heard. I hope we do it justice.

Now For the Good News – Depo-Provera Prevents Ovarian Cancer

We’ve known for years that birth control pills protect against ovarian cancer, with an up to 80% reduction in risk with long term use.  Now it appears that use of Depo-Provera may convey a similar benefit.

In a large multicenter case control study in Thailand, published ahead of print in the upcoming issue of the British Journal of Ob-Gyn, use of Depo Provera led to a 39% reduction in ovarian cancer risk. Long term use for three years or more reduced the risk of ovarian cancer by a whopping 83%.  Oh, and by the way, in case you didn’t know it, Depo-Provera also protects against uterine cancer, doing it so well that it is actually used as treatment for uterine cancer.

That’s important information for women using Depo Provera to know, particularly in light of recent media attention to the potential for breast cancer in long term Depo Provera users under age 35.

To put it all into perspective, the risk for breast cancer in women under age 35 is about a 0.2% (1 in 500). The lifetime risk for ovarian cancer is about 1.5% (1 in 66). The lifetime risk of endometrial cancer is about 2.5% (1 in 40). Unlike the possible breast cancer risks, which disappear when Depo-Provera is stopped, the protections against ovarian and endometrial cancer appear to be lifelong.

All of these cancer risks are low in comparison to the risk of unplanned pregnancy, which comprise close to half of the pregnancies conceived each year in the United States. For most women, concerns about raising or lowering cancer risk is not the driving force behind choice of contraceptive.  But on balance, the cancer risk/benefit ratio of Depo-Provera appears to be quite favorable and on par with that of combined oral contraceptives.

For women who need effective birth control, that’s good news.

Depo-Provera Use Does Not Raise Overall Breast Cancer Risk in Young Women

That’s the headline the media should have used when publicizing the results of a recent study comparing Depo-Provera use among women ages 20-44 with or without breast cancer. Because that’s exactly what the study’s authors found.

There was no difference in exposure to Depo-Provera among women with breast cancer compared to controls – about 11% of women in each group had ever used Depo-Provera.

Small Sub-group analysis raised a question

However, the researchers also did what is called sub-group analysis – looking at smaller and smaller groups within the breast cancer study population to see if they could find any women who might have a higher risk from Depo-Provera use, even if the overall group did not.

Before I get to those results, I need to point out that cases and controls, and Depo-Provera users and non-users had significant differences in body mass index, ethnicity, family history, age and pregnancy history – all factors related to breast cancer risk.  In addition, controls had had less mammograms than their counterparts who had breast cancer. There is also a large issue of recall bias at play in studies such as this, since we know that subjects with the disease or condition being studied tend to remember drug exposures better than controls do.

Despite these marked differences between the groups, no statistically significant difference was found between Depo-Provera use in breast cancer patients compared to controls.

BUT, when subgroup analysis was done, there was one group that showed a difference – women who had used Depo-Provera for a year or more within the past 5 years. Here’s the finding that led to the headlines –

However, recent users of DMPA (Depo-Provera) for 12 months or longer had a 2.2-fold increased risk of breast cancer (95% CI: 1.2-4.2).

That was all the media needed to hear, and they were off and running, with headlines such as “Depo-Provera shots tied to breast cancer ” and “Depo-Provera shots double breast cancer risk.” Such headlines fail to convey the overall results of the study in a way that is meaningful to anyone but the lawyers.

The Sub-Group analysis that raised concerns was conducted in less than 100 women

What the media did not tell you was that in this “large study”, the actual number of women in the sub-group that showed this statistically significant and concerning result was extremely small – only 34 controls and 36 cases had used Depo-Provera in the past 5 years. Among these, only 15 and 32 respectively had used Depo-Provera for a year or more in that time!

So there you have it – headlines based on a subgroup analysis of less than 100 women who were poorly matched to start with.

These kinds of studies raise far more questions than they answer

Subgroup analysis is a research tool to look for potential topics for further investigation or to inform questionable findings in the overall analysis. For researchers, this type of analysis can be valuable in defining areas for future larger study. But publicizing the results of a small subgroup analysis as if it were the findings of the larger group mis-represents the strength and reliability of the findings. And in this case, that publicity does nothing more that to frighten women away from using hormonal birth control.

I for one am not changing my prescribing practices around Depo-Provera based on this study. Depo-Provera remains an important contraceptive option for many women, although potential side effects (irregular bleeding, weight gain) limit its acceptability as a first line method for the majority of them.  Overall, about 3% of women who use contraception in the United States currently use Depo-Provera.

The discussion around breast cancer and current hormonal contraception is not new

The magnitude of the risk cited, and it’s relationship to current use of Depo-Provera in younger women, is similar to that which has been reported in the past in studies of oral contraceptives and breast cancer risk.  Specifically with Depo-Provera, the risk that appears in current users in some studies actually disappears with longer term use, suggesting that the mechanism may be acceleration of growth of pre-existing tumors, rather than induction of new cancers over time.

Overall, neither oral contraceptives nor Depo-Provera appear to increase lifetime risk of breast cancer. Both reduce the risk of endometrial cancers, and the pill reduces ovarian cancer risk.

Future research may elucidate better what the effect of medroxyprogesterone acetate, the drug in Depo-Provera and the one studied as hormone replacement in the Women’s Health Initiative, may be on breast cancer risk. For now, that risk has best been defined in post-menopausal women, and not in users of hormonal contraception.

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Further reading on Breast Cancer Risks and Depo-Provera

  • Depot medroxyprogesterone acetate and breast cancer. A review of current knowledge. Drug Safety Review, 1996
  • WHO Study showed similar results in subgroup analysis for current use in women under age 35.
  • WHO Memorandum on Depo-Provera and Cancer risks.
  • New Zealand study showing risk with longer term use in younger women, with same limitation of small numbers
  • Pooled Analysis of WHO and New Zealand Studies . JAMA 1995

Conflict statement – In the late 90’s, I published two studies of Depo-Provera acceptance and continuation, one of which was partially funded by small investigator-initiated grant from Upjohn that paid part of my research assistant’s salary, along with an NIH training grant.  I have no current conflicts to report.

Making Charoset

Although I was not born Jewish, I did marry into a Jewish family. Now, over 20 years later, the culinary traditions of that religion feel as much like my own as those I share with my own family. One of my favorite of the Jewish traditions is making Charoset for Passover dinner, a task to which I have been assigned for some years now.

Charoset is a pasty mixture of fruit, nuts and wine that symbolizes both the mortar used by the Israelites to build the pyramids of the Egyptians and the sweetness of the freedom they would one day live to see. Charoset is eaten during the Passover ceremony, and later, spread between two motsah halves with a bit of horseradish, it makes Hillel’s sandwich. The Charoset we serve is a traditional Eastern European recipe. Sephardic versions may use dates or figs, mixed nuts and even fruit juice.

The Charoset recipe I use never varies, but every batch is unique. That’s because I’ve never actually written the recipe for Charoset down. It’s impossible really since the flavors evolve as you make it, and vary depending on the size and variety of apple you use in a given year. Thus, every year’s Charoset making is a bit of an adventure to see if I can get it as close to perfect as I can, or at least as good as it was last year.

I begin each year by assembling the tools of the task – an old wooden bowl (did Irene give it to me? Did I get it at a house sale? I don’t remember) and the old rocker-bottom metal cleaver I bought at an antique market. Although the bowl is very occasionally used for salad during the year, the chopper is never used for anything else but this one task, and never unless it is used with this bowl.

I then gather the ingredients – Apples (Fuji or gala with a granny smith or two), pecans (How many? I have no idea – at least a cup but not more than two cups), a bottle of Manichevitz wine (I used about 3/4 of the bottle) and some ground cinnamon (2 tbsp? 3 tbsp?…). maybe some brown sugar or honey if your apples aren’t sweet enough…

There is always one, and sometimes more than one phone call to my mother-in-law. How many apples? (5-6 seems about right ) Which wine again – elderberry or blackberry? (Blackberry) Do I peel the apples? (Yes)

I peel the apples, cut them into eights and toss them into the bowl, working quickly because I don’t want them to brown. Next, I toss the pecans on top, sprinkle some cinnamon and pour some wine over the lot. And then the fun really begins.

There is nothing, I tell you, more satisfying than the Fwick! Clunk! sound the cleaver makes as it slides through the apples and pecans and then bounces against the wooden bottom of the bowl, only to repeat itself again, again and again, interrupted only long enough to sweep across the bottom to gather up more apples into the center so the symphony of chopping can begin anew. Here – just listen to it and see what I mean –


How long to chop? Until the mixture is evenly chopped, almost but not quite mushy, but not chunky either. As the wine is absorbed, you keep adding more. You stop to taste, and add more cinnamon. Then more wine. Maybe some brown sugar or honey, but not too much, just a teaspoon or so. Then more chopping. Until it is perfect. Or as perfect as you can make it until tomorrow, when you bring it to your mother-in-law’s kitchen for the final taste test. There, you won’t mind at all if she tells you that you added too little cinnamon. Or didn’t chop long enough. Or need a little more wine.  She will help you adjust it and she will always be right.

Each time you make Charoset, you remind yourself to stop and write down exactly what you are doing so that you get the quantities right once and for all. But then the Fwick! Clunck! begins, and you are lost in the sounds and a tradition that reminds you to savor this moment, and this task, and to just let what you are making be whatever it will be. And in that moment, you know that, perfect or not, it will be wonderful.
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If you want a recipe for Charoset, here a few –

The War on Women Has Gone Too Far

First they want to take away insurance coverage of birth control. Then they call us sluts and try to force us to have vaginal sonograms.

Now they’re trying to convince us we’re even fatter than we already think we are.

US Women could be more obese than believed

MONDAY, April 2 (HealthDay News) — The way that obesity is currently measured greatly underestimates the actual number of women who are obese, a new study suggests.

Almost half of women currently labeled as not obese by virtue of their body mass index (BMI) turned out to be obese when measured by a newer method focusing on their percentage of body fat by weight, the research found.

A cheap and obvious attempt at psychological warfare.

What the reporter failed to mention that almost a quarter of men were also found to be fatter than their BMI suggested.

So there.