Po. Go.

Po is Mario Batali’s first restaurant, except it’s not Batali’s restaurant anymore. The place is owned by Steven Crane, who opened Po with Batali over 20 years ago, but the kitchen is now manned by Lee McGrath. Which is every reason you need to eat there.

Mr TBTAM, my daughter and I had dinner at Po last Sunday evening to celebrate Restaurant Week and Valentine’s Weekend. We had a 5:15 pm reservation, since we had tickets for the 7 pm show at the Angelika theater . Although totally uncool, it was a great time to go – we had first sitting, great service, and by the time we left, the line was just starting to form at the door.

What I loved most about Po is that it is small, intimate and feels nothing like the restaurant empire that I know Batali has built since opening Po. The only scene here is the food. The decor is simple and white, but feels warm and cozy. Steve Crane the owner was there, locals kept stopping by the bar to say hi, and it just felt like what a restaurant should be, on a street that still feels like the Village has always felt. I wanted to move there. Now. After all, Murray’s Cheese shop is right at the end of the block. So is Amys’ Breads. And Faccio’s Pork Shop. And Reafettos Pasta Shop is just around the corner. What more could a person want?

Which brings me to the food (and the usual bad restaurant Iphone food photos)

  • White Bean Crostini. Complimentary. Fresh, garlicky, although I did sprinkle a tad of salt on mine.
  • Mesclun greens with a lemon thyme vinaigrette. Perfect.
  • Orichetti with sausage ragu and broccoli rabe. OMG. Reminiscent actually, of my mother in law Irene’s Bolognese, but with a robust but not overpowering thyme aroma and a butteriness that made it so satisfying, we brought leftovers home and had it the next night – even better.

  • Grilled Guinea Hen  with Pumpkin scallions, fregula & saba. Their signature dish, and I know why. Sweet, savory, light, amazing.

  • Lingiuine Vongole with fresh clams, pancetta, red chile and white wine. Mr TBTAM, someone finally made a clam sauce as good as yours.
  • Wine – I  had the Pino Grigio ’08 “Santi” Sortesele (Vento) by the glass – light, citrusy. I’m back onto a Pinot phase, and am tasting flavors in it I had never tasted before. Not sure why. Maybe my taste buds are maturing…
  • Dessert – Not knowing in advance the reputation of the ricotta cheesecake, we opted for a warm apple tart with ice cream. I think I got one bite away from my companions. Thanks, guys…

My only complaint was that the cushion on the banquette needed some bolstering – we had to fight over who got “the sinking spot”. That should be easily fixed, but we forgot to tell them because we were distracted by the wonderful meal. If someone from Po is reading this, it’s the first table on the right wall as you walk in the door…

Despite the fact that we did not have the restaurant week meal, everything was very reasonably priced.  Not cheap, mind you, but it did not feel like we were being gouged in return for the privilege of eating fresh, local ingredients in an intimate setting. I like the fact that Po has maintained relationships with local food purveyors since it opened, and that they get fresh food from a farm upstate. In a way they’ve been at the vanguard of the local food movement, without being all precious (and pretentious) about it.

Bottom Line

If you’re looking for a really special meal in a really special NYC location, go to Po. I’m definitely going back again. And again.

And in my next life, the one where I can afford to buy an apartment wherever I want in New York City? I’m moving to Cornelia Street.
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5 Responses to Po. Go.

  1. Just a quick hint with the iPhone camera…I had a similar problem. Then I took a q-tip dipped in a dot of water or alcohol to the camera lens on the back of the phone to dissolve some caked on gook. It did the trick for me.
    Loved your tale of Po and the pix nonetheless. Cheryl

    Reply

  2. Just discovered your blog — I love it!
    Just a thought… move to Jones Street, one block west of Cornelia. You don’t want to live on a block with as many restaurants as Cornelia (loud late night garbage trucks). And Jones Street gets better light! I’ll look for you in the neighborhood

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  3. Thank you so much for the recommendation. We celebrated my fiancees 50th birthday here (visiting from Minnesota).
    We choose the 6 course tasting menu which was splendid and worth every penny. The standout dish was a primi not listed on the menu involving a stuffed ravioli like envelope thing, filling was ricotta and purred asparagus. The sauce was stunning, butter, lemon, truffle oil. Our plates were bare. For dessert we enjoyed the Dark Chocolate Terrine with espresso caramel and Panna Cotta with Amarena cherries.
    Out of sheer desire we returned the next night without a reservation and were able to have dessert again! This time the Riccota cheesecake and warm apple tart with ice cream – both wonderful. As we waiting to be seated we spoke with a woman from the neighborhood who said she had eaten there once a week for 4 years!
    This was my first visit to New York City. I loved it and can’t wait to return.
    Ann (OB/GYN from Minnesota)

    Reply

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