
We love serving Pastitsio, also known as Greek Lasagna, to our friends and family. Made with pasta, meat sauce and bechamel, and flavored with nutmeg and cinnamon, pastitsio somehow seems more special than Italian Lasagna, and never fails to get raves from dinner guests.
Our Pastitsio is based on an old artery-clogging recipe from Jeff Smith’s cookbook The Frugal Gourmet Cooks Three Ancient Cuisines, which in turn comes from a Greek Orthodox Church cookbook called Greek Cooking in an American Kitchen. The original recipe calls for 9 eggs, 16 tbsp of butter and not a drop of olive oil! I’ve enlightened it quite a bit, although it is still quite a rich dish.
Something tells me this is not the original Greek version of Pastitsio – after all, the Mediterranean Diet is supposed to be healthy, right? I figure this Americanized version evolved when Greek immigrant housewives, unable to find (or afford) olive oil at the local A&P, turned to butter – and the rest is history.
But then, I asked the Greeks who run our local Pizza joint how they make their pastitsio at home. (These guys are the real thing, complete with accents.) “Butter” was their unequivocal answer. “We use butter for baking, and olive oil in our salads. Olive oil in Pastitsio would not taste right.” Our nurse manager, Maria, who is also Greek, concurs. “They do make it in Greece with olive oil, but it’s an entirely different dish. My kids don’t like it.” The pastitsio her kids love is made with two sticks of butter, making me wonder if her mother knew the ladies who wrote that church cookbook up there…
I did find a healthier Pastitsio recipe in John Kaldes’ cookbook Made in Greece. (Faithful readers may recall John from our little foray to the fish market in Newark…) John’s recipe uses no butter, not even in the bechamel, and calls for two different Greek cheeses. A bechamel made with olive oil – that’s got to be the authentic recipe.
I think I am going to make John’s Pastitsio next time and see how it stands up to the American version. I’ll let you know how it turns out. Better yet, John, how about a little Pastitsio Throw Down? (Update – The Throwdown is a go! Probably sometime early spring. Stay tuned…)
ARTERY CLOGGING, CROWD PLEASING, BIG, FAT AMERICAN PASTISTIO
Even I’m not going to use two sticks of butter in one recipe, so I’ve cut back considerably on that as well as the eggs. I also make a larger quantity of sauce than the original recipe, and serve it atop, since the Pastitsio can be a bit dry otherwise. I do what Jeff Smith suggests, and line my ziti up in rows so it looks pretty when sliced. Serve with a big side of green salad.
Meat Mixture
2 tbsp olive oil
1 large peeled and finely chopped onion
2 cloves garlic, chopped
2 pounds lean ground beef
2 large can peeled tomatoes, pulsed on processor (or used chopped tomatoes)
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/8 tsp cloves
Macaroni
4 qt water
salt
1 lb ziti
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2 tbsp butter, melted
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Bechamel
4 tbsp butter
4 tbsp flour
2 cups warm milk
2 eggs, beaten lightly
2 tbsp dry sherry
1/2 tsp freshly ground nutmeg
1/2 cup Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper to taste
Heat olive oil in a large skillet. Saute onion and garlic till golden. Add beef and cook till it just loses its red color, then add the remaining meat mixture ingredients and simmer, uncovered, for 30-45 minutes. It should be thick. Set aside.
Meanwhile, bring the water to a boil in a large stockpot. Add salt and ziti and cook, uncovered about 7-8 minutes. Drain and place in a large bowl. Add melted butter and beaten eggs and grated cheeses. Put half this mixture into the bottom of a greased 9x9x2 inch baking pan and top with about 2/3 of the meat mixture. (You’ll reserve the rest of the meat mixture, keeping it warm to serve atop the final dish). Cover the meat with the remaining half of the pasta.
Prepare the white sauce by melting butter in a large saucepan. Stir in flour and cook for a minute. Gradually add the heated milk, stirring constantly, and cook till thickened and smooth. Beat the eggs in a separate bowl, then stir in 1/2 cup of the bechamel. Blend and stir the egg/sauce mixture back into the bechamel in the saucepan and continue to stir over low heat til thickened. Add remaining ingredients to the sauce.
Pour the sauce over the ziti and bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for 25-30 minutes, or until the top is delicately browned. Let sit for at least 10 minutes. Serve with a bit of sauce atop each serving.
